A Beginner’s Guide to Buying an Acoustic Starter Guitar
You want to select a fine acoustic starter guitar if you are only a beginner as a shocking one will hold you back for years
Acoustic guitar bodies come in essentially an identical hourglass shape, with a few variations, however they do vary in size, color, wood-kind, style, and further features. You could even purchase an acoustic guitar so little that fits into a hiking backpack.
Guitars are available in a incredibly wide selection of costs, but with regards to instruments, on the whole, you get what you pay for, especially if you buy new. There’s a real difference between getting a bargain and buying cheap.
Except whether you buy new or used may also be determined by a lot of personal factors including your budget, and each has their own pros and cons.
Purchasing new, provides a guaranty and, with a bit of luck, a return period, if for some reason you’re not totally pleased with your acquisition, or something goes wrong.
Under ‘usual’ conditions, a used guitar may ordinarily be purchased cheaper and has by now gone through its “break-in” period.
Commercially created guitars are generally mass manufactured. “Custom-made” guitars are exactly that. They’re custom built and tailored to your specs by a very skilled guitar maker.
Prices for any custom-built guitar vary very much, determined by the skill level of the craftsperson you contract the job to, however, more often than not, they’re usually quite above a commercially built guitar of “similar” quality. Each custom built guitar is unique and therefore hard to match in price to some commercially built guitar.
FOR THE “TECHIES”
Understanding some of the parts of a guitar will definitely assist you when it comes to the Pre-Purchase Checklist.
BODY: This is the part with the sound hole in the front. It’s where the strumming is done, and it could vary in size. The actual size, shape, sort of wood, coating, and general build of the body too affects how a guitar will “sound”, whether it’s a rich and warm sound, or a thin and ‘twangy’ sound. {The body tends to become the part that also gets scratched, damaged, and typically banged-up the most.
NECK: This is the long piece extending from the body and ends at the ‘head’ of the guitar where the ‘Tuning Heads’ are, also often known as ‘machine heads’. The strings travel from the ‘Bridge’ on the body, across the sound hole, over the ‘Fret Board’, that is attached to the front-side of the neck, and finally arriving in the tuning heads where they are wrapped about tuning posts. The tuning heads are then turned by hand, which then turns the posts, making the strings tighter or looser, thus affecting their ‘tuning’. Necks tend to warp and twist if not looked after, or if ever the guitar is left propped touching a heat source.
BRIDGE: The Bridge is generally located on the front of the body by the sound hole, and on the side of the hole opposite to the neck. The strings are ordinarily fed through the bridge first before they cross the hole and travel up the neck towards the tuning heads. The bridge is similar to an anchor-point for the strings. Metal bridges are best, however on most acoustics they’re either rigid plastic or wood. Bridges tend to crack and split over a long period of time.
FRET BOARD: The fret board is glued to the front of the neck. This is the portion you push the strings onto to make chords or play individual notes. As it’s glued on separately, a fret board is crafted from a wood that’s different from the neck.
The strings go over the fret board and the space they are above the fret board produces a difference to the playability of the guitar. If the strings are too far above the fret board, then they are going to be hard to press down, making the guitar awkward to play.
When a newbie plays a guitar, at the start his or her fingertips are very soft and require to get hardened. A guitar with the strings too far above the fret board, also referred to as having a ‘high action’, will cause the player’s fingers to hurt so much that they’re more likely to put the guitar away in discouragement and possibly stop playing totally.
STRINGS: Acoustic guitar strings, are available in a wide type of ‘flavors’. They can be} constructed from nylon, brass, steel, or a mixture. Nylon strings are typically just found on Classical guitars and Student guitars, as they’re easygoing on the fingertips. They’ve a rich, warm sound to them.
Strings sets come in several ‘weights’, or sizes. Strings that come from a package marked ‘Heavy’ are typically quite thick in size and sound “beefy”. Strings which are light, or extra light, are incredibly thin and typically possess a brighter sound to them, however are also quieter sounding than heavy strings.
String choices are purely individual taste. Light strings are easier to press than heavy strings however too sound totally different. The more often strings are played, the dirtier they become. If a cloth isn’t run over and under them, once in a while, the sound gets extremely dull
THE PRE-PURCHASE CHECKLIST
- Before you buy a second user guitar, cost-compare against the cost of a new one, unless the guitar is rather old. You may also contrast its used price to other used prices by going to an online auction and either looking for the same or a similar guitar.
- Check the overall condition of the wood for cracks, scratches, splits, dents, chips, etc.
- Too check the lacquer finish for cracks and splits.
- Check the neck/fret board for warping and twisting. You could do this by holding the guitar flat on its back, with the sound hole facing upward. Bring the guitar up to eye-level, with the neck running from you and the edge of the body almost touching your face. Let your eyesight glide across the front of the body and down the fret board. You have to be able to notice if the neck is twisted or bowing.
- Tune the guitar, or have the vendor tune it for you.
- If you know the way to play about five or six chords then play them. For those who don’t know how to play, ask the seller to play them for you. This check ensures the neck of the guitar isn’t warped, even though the fact that you couldn’t physically notice it. If the neck is warped, and the guitar is correctly tuned, then a quantity of of the chords will sound good, however others will sound as though the fact that} the guitar is not tuned. If this happens, verify the tuning again. If it persists, then don’t buy the guitar.
- Check the bridge of the guitar. If it’s made out of wood or plastic, make sure it’s not cracked or splitting. The bridge needs to be rock-solid, as lots of pressure is exerted on the bridge by the strings.
- Check the tuning heads. Do they turn easily, or are they very stiff and hard to turn. Even considering the high tension of the strings, a quality guitar has tuning heads which are comparatively simple to turn.
- Check the ‘action’ of the guitar. Are the strings a fair distance over the fret board? Are they easy or hard to press down at a choice of points on the fret board?
- If you are buying the guitar for yourself, and you know how to play, even if you’re a beginner, then play the guitar.
- How does it feel?
- Is it simple or hard to play?
- Can you fit your hand around the neck/fret board comfortably to play chords?
- Is the guitar a snug size and shape for the body? Is it straightforward to carry?
- If you propose to play standing up, ask for a guitar strap.
- Do you like the sound, the color, etc?
- If you don’t play, have someone else play it for you so that you could determine what it sounds like.
WHERE TO BUY
Buying a guitar at a physical retail music store permits you to ‘test drive’ the guitar and ask more questions up front. Buying on the internet or from a catalog may also bring you extra cash savings.
